KNIGHT
BT-50
1.8oz
OVERALL LENGTH 17.5"
MOTORS:
A8-3 FOR FIRST FLIGHT
B6-4, C6-5
Model Rocketry is a fun and safe family activity.
model rocketry is a science your results may vary depending on how you build the rocket. please read the National Association of Rocketry model rocketry safety code and the model rocket handbook.
My Instructions are meant as a guide and are not a guarantee of stability or function of the product.
This rocket has been tested and proven but your results may be different.
Launching rockets can be dangerous and requires adult supervision. you use our products at your own risk. OLLIE-OOP Model Rocketry is not responsible for any damages or injuries incurred from use or misuse of our products. you are responsible for the Contruction and stability of your rocket. please follow all safety codes and launch procedures as stated by the NAR handbook.
our kits are not intended to be modified. Please use the recommended engines.
Always follow the NAR safety code at www.nar.com
Read all steps before beginning. Always dry fit the parts on every step that requires glue. And always add a reinforcing bead of glue to all joints the required glue and wipe off excess glue with your finger.
Always wear safety glasses and mask when cutting or sanding or using powder.
PARTS LIST:
NOSE CONE
4 - FINS - LASER CUT WITH LASER CUT CROSS + A 5TH MYSTERY FIN
MOTOR MOUNT & HOOK
PARACHUTE, LINE, SHOCK CORD, CORD MOUNT
BODY TUBE BT-50
SMALL STRIP OF BALSA
2 - LAUNCH LUGS
LARGE GREEN RING
TUBE MARKING GUIDE
VINYL DECALS (peel & stick)
*Recommended to use yellow wood glue, CA and or 5-minute epoxy
THIS KIT IS THE FIRST IN A SERIES. EACH KIT WILL INCLUDE 1 EXTRA PART THAT YOU CAN USE AS A SPARE, BUT I RECOMMEND THAT YOU KEEP THE EXTRA PARTS BECAUSE IF YOU GET ONE OF EACH OF THE KITS FROM THE SERIES YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH PARTS TO BUILD A MYSTERY ROCKET FOR FREE.
STEP 1:
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEINNING AND MAKE SURE ALL PARTS ARE COMPLETE.
ALWAYS DRY FIT THE PARTS BEFORE GLUING.
STEP 2:
MAKE 2 MARKS ON ENGINE TUBE. ONE MARK AT 1/4 INCH FROM THE END AND ONE AT 2 1/4 INCHS FROM THE OTHER END OF THE TUBE. THEN CUT A 1/8" SLIT AT THE 1/4 INCH MARK.
CUT A 1/4" SLOT ON THE INSIDE OF BOTH CENTERINGS RING JUST BIG ENOUGH FOR THE HOOK. (See picture)
PUT A RING OF GLUE AROUND THE TUBE AT THE 1/4 MARK.
* (Make sure to place the slot in the ring over the hook)
PUSH A RING PAST THE LINE, THROUGH THE GLUE AND OVER THE HOOK, STOP ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LINE. (See picture)
PUT A RING OF GLUE AROUND THE OTHER LINE AND PUSH THE RING UP TO THE LINE, THROUGH THE GLUE AND STOP AT THE LINE
PUT A RING OF GLUE AROUND THE INSIDE OF THE MOTOR TUBE AT THE 1/4 INCH MARK END, PUSH THE SMALL RING IN UNTIL IT STOPS AT THE HOOK.
PUT ANOTHER RING OF GLUE AROUND BOTH EDGES OF BOTH RINGS. TRY NOT TO GET GLUE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE RINGS.
.... SET ASIDE AND LET DRY
Yours should look like this
STEP 3:
CUT OUT THE TUBE MARKING GUIDE AND WRAP IT AROUND THE BODY TUBE AND TAPE IT IN PLACE. WRAP IT SO THAT THE TABS ON THE ENDS MATCH LINES.
MAKE LITE PENCIL MARKS AT EACH LINE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE GUIDE.
4 LINES FOR THE FINS AND 1 LINE FOR THE LAUNCH LUG. MARK THE LAUNCH LUG LINE WITH AN L
NOW EXTEND EACH LINE WITH A DOOR FRAME OR T-TOOL OR THE EDGE OF A DRAWER OR THICK BOOK, ANYTHING TO MAKE A STRIGHT LINE.
THE FIN LINES EXTEND 2 INCHES AND THE LUG LAUNCH LINE THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE TUBE.
FROM THE MOTOR END OF THE TUBE, ON THE LAUNCH LUG LINE MAKE A MARK AT 1/2 INCH AND ANOTHER MARK AT 5 1/4 INCHES (Marked in black in photo)
ON THE 4 FIN LINES MAKE 2 MARKS ON EACH LINE, ONE AT 3/8 INCH AND ANOTHER MARK AT 1 5/8 INCHES FROM THE END OF THE TUBE.
REPEAT THE SAME ON ALL FOUR FIN LINES. (Marked in blue in the photo)
STEP 4: Revised, this revision of STEP 4 has not been added to the PDF instructions.
REMOVE THE FINS, CROSS AND SAND THE SURFACE AND THE EDGES.
HOLD THEM ALL AT THE SAME TIME. AND MAKE SURE TO SAND THEM ALL EVENLY, DONT SAND ONE MORE THAN ANOTHER. TRY TO SAND AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE.
YOU CAN ALSO ROUND OVER THE LEADING EDGES IF YOU LIKE.
(I use Elemer's wood filler mixed with a little water also sanding sealer is another product I have used with good results. If you choose to fill the fins) There's tons of videos on you tube on this, painting and decals that will help you learn it vastly better than i can explain it.
*IF THE MOTOR MOUNT IS DRY.
STEP 5:
LOCATE ENGINE MOUNT. TEST FIT IT IN BODY TUBE. IF IT DOESNT FIT SAND THE RINGS A LITTLE BIT AT A TIME AND KEEP TESTING IT UNTIL IT SLIDES IN EASY.
USING A STICK OR CARDBOARD APPLY A GOOD AMOUNT OF GLUE 1 3/4 INCHES IN THE END OF THE BODY TUBE. GO ALL THE WAY AROUND THE INSIDE OF THE TUBE.
THIS NEXT STEP MUST BE DONE FAST AND ACCURATE OR THE MOUNT WILL GET STUCK.
PUSH THE MOUNT IN UNTIL THE MOUNT TUBE IS FLUSH WITH THE BODY TUBE. DO NOT STOP DURING THIS STEP UNTIL THE TUBES ARE FLUSH.
PUT A LINE OF GLUE AROUND THE OTHER MOUNT RING AND
SET ASIDE AND LET DRY. (See pictures)
This photo is to show an example of how to install motor mount.
STEP 6:
TO ADD THE LAUNCH LUG, USE A LAUNCH ROD TO KEEP BOTH LUGS STRIGHT.
USE RUBBER BANDS TO HOLD THE LAUNCH ROD ON THE LAUNCH LUG LINE
(See picture)
SLIDE THE LAUNCH LUGS ON THE ROD AND PLACE THEM AT THE MARKS YOU MADE. CARFULLY LIFT THE ROD TO GET GLUE UNDER THE LUGS, YOU CAN ALSO USE A SMALL STRIP OF CARDSTOCK WITH GLUE ON IT AND GENTLY LIFT THE ROD NEAR THE LUG TO PUT GLUE UNDER THEM.
NOW GLUE THEM ON AND DONT LET ANYTHING MOVE UNTIL DRY.
ADD AN EXTRA FILLET TO BOTH LUG ON BOTH SIDES.
LET DRY AGAIN.
STEP 7:
MAKE 5 MARKS ON THE NOSE END OF THE BODY TUBE, MARK ALL 5 AT 1/4 FROM THE END OF THE TUBE.
SPACE THE MARKS ABOUT 1/2 INCH APART FROM EACH OTHER.
NOW MAKE ONE MORE MARK FROM THE SAME END AT 4 INCHES.
LOCATETHE LARGE GREEN RING AND CUT OUT A SECTION OF IT, ABOUT 1/2 INCH SLOT FOR THE LAUNCH ROD TO CLEAR THE RING.
SLIDE ON THE RING TO THE 4 INCH MARK. AND MAKE SURE THE SLOT YOU CUT IS CENTERED ON THE LAUNCH LUG LINE. ADD A LINE OF GLUE AT THE 4 INCH MARK AND GLUE THE RING ON.
LOCATE THE SMALL STRIP OF BALSA AND CUT FIVE 1/4 INCH SQUARE PCS OUT OF IT.
GLUE THEM AT THE 5 MARKS YOU MADE AT THE END OF THE TUBE.
MAKE SURE TO NOTE THE LAUNCH LUG LINE AND SPACE THE PARTS AWAY FROM IT.
STEP 8:
ASSEMBLE THE PARACHUTE
LOCATE THE PARACHUTE AND TAPE DISCS, PLACE A TAPE DISC AT EACH CORNER OF THE CHUTE AND RUB THEM DOWN HARD. CAREFULLY CUT A SMALL X IN THE RING OF THE DISC JUST ENOUGH TO FEED THE CHUTE LINE THROUGH AND THEN TIE THEM TIGHTLY.
LOCATE THE NOSE CONE AND REMOVE THE SMALL PC OF PLASTIC IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ATTACHMENT RING, CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THROUGH THE ATTACHMENT RING ON THE NOSE CONE.
NOW CLIP THE PARACHUTE SWIVEL TO THE NOSE CONE.
(There are tons of videos on YouTube how to pack the parachute, please watch some of those for an example) (Always wear a mask if using any powder on you chute)
(You can also tie the shock cord to the lines near the swivel)
STEP 9:
LOCATE THE FINS. PUT A LINE OF GLUE ON THE ROOT EDGE (The part that touches the body tube) AND PLACE IT ON THE TUBE BETWEEN THE 2 MARKS YOU MADE EARILER, MAKE SURE TO EYE THE FIN MAKING SURE IT STAYS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FIN LINE AND IN BETWEEN THE 2 FIN PLACEMENT MARKS.
ONCE ITS DRY REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS ON THE OTHER 3 FINS. ONCE DRY ADD FILLETS (line of glue) TO BOTH SIDES OF EVERY FIN.
WIPE OFF THE EXCESS GLUE WITH YOUR FINGER, ONLY USE YOUR FINGER IF YOU ARE USING WHITE GLUE.
NOTE: DONT FORGET TO KEEP YOUR EXTRA FIN IN A SAFE PLACE
THEY SHOULD ALL BE PERFECTLY EVEN WITH EACH OTHER, YOU CAN CHECK THIS BY LOOKING AT THE ROCKET FROM BEHIND. (See picture)
AFTER THE GLUE IS DRY
STEP 10:
USING A SMALL STRIP OF SANDPAPER AND A SMALL STICK, CAREFULLY SAND THE 5 SMALL PCS. YOU CAN ROUND THEM OVER OR CHOOSE ANY SHAPE. I SHOW A COUPLE OF EXAMPLES. TRY NOT TO SAND INTI THE BODY TUBE.
YOU CAN ALSO CHOOSE TO SWITCH PLACES WITH THE RING AND 5 SMALL PCS OF BALSA. THESE PARTS ARE JUST ALONG FOR THE RIDE.
STEP 11: ONLY DO THIS STEP AFTER THE PAINT HAS FULLY DRIED.
LOCATE THE DECALS AND CLEAR TRANSFER PAPER STRIP
THESE ARE PERMANENT VINYL, IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE, YOU CAN PULL THEM BACK UP IF ITS DONE BEFORE YOU RUB THEM DOWN.
THE TRANSFER PAPER IS ABOUT AS STICKY AS MASKING TAPE IT IS USED TO PULL THE DECAL OFF THE PAPER SO YOU CAN PLACE THEM.
CUT THE PAPER TO FIT THE LETTERS KNIGH, LAY THE TRANSFER PAPER ON THEM AND RUB DOWN JUST ENOUGH UNTIL THE DECALS STICK TO THE TRANSFER PAPER, THEN PEEL THE PAPER UP WITH THE LETTERS ATTACHED.
CENTER THEM ON THE TUBE AND LAY IT ALL DOWN. NOW EASY PRESS EACH LETTER WITH YOUR FINGERNAIL, TRY NOT TO PRESS TOO MUCH ON THE TRANSFER PAPER THAT TOUCHES THE ROCKET.
SLOWLY PULL BACK THE TRANSFER PAPER AT A 90 DEGREE ANGEL, IF THE DECALS DONT STICK TO THE ROCKET, STOP AND REPEAT RUBBING THEM DOWN UNTIL THEY STICK.
LOCATE THE RED CROSS AND USING THE SAME METHOD PUT IT ON THE ROCKET TO COMPLETE THE KNIGHT NAME.
LOCATE THE LONG BLACK STRIPS AND PULL BACK ONE END A LITTLE AND FOLD UNDER THE BACKING. BE CAREFULL NOT TO CREASE THE OTHER STRIPS, YOU CAN CUT THEM ALL APART IF ITS EASIER.
1 STRIP IS ENOUGHT TO TWIST ALL THE WAY UP THE HANDLE.
START AT THE GAP IN THE LARGE RING AND SPIRAL IT UP TO THE TOP, IT SHOULD END ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE ROCKET WERE YOU STARTED.
YOU CAN PRACTICE THIS BY SPIRALING THE DECAL WITHOUT PELLING OFF THE BACKING.
JUST KEEP EYEING IT AND TRY TO KEEP ALL THE SPACING EQUAL, IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE, YOU CAN PULL IT BACK UP AND REPLACE IT AS LONG AS ITS NOT GOING TO PULL UP THE PAINT.
NOW REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS STARTING AT THE TOP BY THE NOSE CONE RIGHT WRE THE LAST STIP STOPPED, STAR A NEW STRIP TO SPIRAL DOWN THE HANDLE, TRY TO KEEP IT ALL EVEN AS YOU GO.
THE LAST 2 STRIPS WRAP AROUND THE TUBE AT THE BIG RING AND AT THE END OF THE TUBE/HANDLE BY THE NOSE CONE.
A 3 INCH STRIP WILL WRAP AROUNR NICELY. CUT 3 3 INCH STRIPS AND WRAP THEM AS SEEN IN PICTURE.
I HAD EXTRA STRIP SO I PUT ANOTHER WRAP ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE STUDS
I PAINTED MINE A FEW DIFFERENT COLORS TO SHOW WHAT DIFFERENT OPTIONS LOOK LIKE. YOU CAN CHOOSE ANY PAINT OPTION YOU LIKE.
THE NOSE IS CHROME AND THE FINS ARE GREY, THE TUBE IS BROWN.
THE RING AND 5PCS ARE MIRROR MARKER.
NOTE: YOU WILL RECIEVE FINS WITH THE CROSS LASER CUT OUT OF THEM, MINE IN THE PICTURE DOES NOT HAVE THEM CUT OUT BECAUSE I WAS USING SCRAP WOOD FOR MINE. I ADDED BLACK CROSS DECALS FOR EFFECTS FOR THE PICTURE, AND THE CHUTE THAT COMES WITH THE KIT DOES NOT HAVE KEVLAR LINE. I JUST USED KEVLAR ON MY BUILD.
REMEMBER TO SAVE ANY EXTRA PARTS THAT CAME IN THE KIT. IF YOU BUY THE WHOLE SERIES, YOU WILL HAVE An EXTRA FREE MYSTERY ROCKET KIT.
PLEASE REMEMBER TO ALWAYS FOLLOW THE NAR SAFTY CODE WHEN LAUNCHING ROCKETS.
YOU CAN READ THE CODES AND LOTS MORE INFORMATION AT
NAR - NATIONAL ASSOCIATION of ROCKETRY
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